An extreme rescue operation in the Cordillera Blanca has moved the international mountaineering community. Japanese citizens Saki Terada (36) and Chiaki Inada (40) suffered a serious accident at 6,500 meters altitude while descending from the summit of Huascarán Sur (6,768 m). Sadly, the expedition claimed the life of Inada, a respected member of the Wilderness Medical Associates Japan (WMAJ) organization.

The athletes were undertaking a technically demanding ascent of the Shield Direct Route (also known as the French Direct), a route classified as ED (Extremely Difficult) featuring steep slopes of 60° to 85°, hanging seracs, and a Extremely high objective danger.

Chronology of an emergency at 6,500 meters

After beginning her summit attempt at 1:00 a.m. on June 23, and after overcoming the greatest difficulties of the face, Chiaki Inada suffered extreme exhaustion that triggered a severe case of hypothermia on the final ridge, leaving her completely immobilized.

• June 23 (9:20 p.m.): The SOS distress signal is activated. using a Garmin InReach satellite device.

• June 24 (00:00 h): The headquarters of the Peruvian Andean Rescue Service (S.A.P.) receives the alert and immediately activates high-altitude rescue protocols.

A rescue at the limit of human capabilities

On June 25, at 3:20 p.m., the rescuers made contact with the mountaineers at an altitude of over 6,000 meters. Minutes later, through a remote verification call led by Japanese medical specialist Dr. Sho Chataani (WMAJ), the standard clinical evaluation was carried out, confirming the tragic death of Chiaki Inada.

Technical note: Due to extreme physical exhaustion and weather conditions on the mountain, the rescuers were forced to improvise an emergency bivouac at 6,000 meters (Camp 2) before beginning the dangerous technical descent through ice blocks, crevasses, and exposed rappels.

On the afternoon of June 26, Saki Terada was successfully evacuated by helicopter to the city of Huaraz, where an ambulance was waiting to urgently transfer her to the local hospital, completing the first operational phase.

Currently, a new team of specialists from the Peruvian Andean Rescue and the National Police has returned to the high camps of the Cordillera Blanca to carry out the arduous task of recovering Chiaki Inada’s remains and transferring them to Huaraz for the necessary procedures. law.

From Global Mountain, we express our deepest respect and condolences to the community of Wilderness Medical Associates Japan, as well as to the family of the deceased mountaineer. We also extend our gratitude to the Peruvian Andean Rescue Team and the High Mountain Police for risking their lives in one of the most complex rescue missions of the year.